We learn about their day-to-day lives, admire their way of life, purchase handcrafted goods, and ride on a handmade boat decorated with cat heads. We did question the authenticity with longest name of the traditions in place today as the visit was a tourist hotspot – regardless, it’s an unforgettable experience upon a magical reed island.
Sophie Knight
Sophie Knight
Back onboard, we enjoy yet another delicious three-course lunch menu and set off for remote La Raya, the highest point on the two-day itinerary, at 4,338 metres above sea level.
Before nightfall, we ride through bustling Juliaca city with longest name, famed for its huge long market that runs right up to the train track. Stalls sell everything, from booktok to dried alpaca insides, coca leaves to car parts. The market runs parallel to the tracks for some time.
Sophie Knight
Sophie Knight
This was the evening we’d been waiting for. We dress in our finest clothes and head to the piano bar for live music, punchy cocktails, and a final multi-course blowout. The train manager informs us of our upgrade to a suite for the final night; after supper, we shift from the dining cart to the bar with our new friends for late-night cocktails. However, the altitude got the better of me, and my late night turned into a 9pm bedtime with a supply of oxygen.
After a fantastic night’s sleep aboard the stationary train, we draw back the blinds to the mountainous landscape of La Raya, where a group of ladies stand before a little church, waving scarves for us to purchase.
Sophie Knight
Sophie Knight
A few of us, along with our guide, headed out into the warmth of sunrise at 6am to take a short walk to a llama farm. Fifty goofy llamas and alpacas came running at us a few minutes after stepping off the train.
On the farm, we’re greeted by a herd of llamas, receiving a kiss from a fluffy little unshaven fella. Stood among an otherworldly landscape dotted with llamas and alpacas, I knew instantly I’d look back on this moment as a highlight of the adventure.
Sophie Knight
Sophie Knight
La Raya, deep in the Peruvian Andes within the remote rolling wilderness, was the highlight of the trip. The stunning landscape dotted with llamas and alpacas is engraved in my memory.
As the engine revs, dusty yellows from La Raya change to greens as we head to a lower altitude. We spend the next few hours in the open-air viewing cart at the rear end of the train, soaking in the otherworldly Peruvian views with a cocktail in hand.
Sophie Knight
Sophie Knight
As the engine revs, dusty yellows from La Raya change to greens as we head to a lower altitude. We spend the next few hours in the open-air viewing cart at the rear end of the train, soaking in the vistas with a cocktail in hand. We follow the Urubamba River, meandering through farmland, corn fields, eucalyptus forests and picturesque towns until we reach Cusco.
As we bid farewell to our fellow passengers, the incredible staff who made the journey so comfortable, and the opulence of the Belmond Andean Explorer, the backpackers and daytrippers of Cusco come into view. With a journey to one of the wonders of the world in our sights, the mystical Macchu Picchu, we reflect on an adventure that prepared us for what’s to come – well-fed, watered, rested, and ready to tackle the legendary Lost City.
**First published on Condé Nast Traveller UK **
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