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Himachal beyond Shimla-Manali: 7 escapes from the crowds



If paragliding is on your bucket list, head to Bir in Himachal Pradesh. Since the 1960s, the village has also been home to a Tibetan Colony, as refugees settled here during the uprising in 1959. It, therefore, has several Buddhist monasteries that you can visit such as the Sherabling Monastery, the Chokling Monastery or the Drukpa Kagyu Monastery. When you’re done exploring every adventure sport such as paragliding, camping, trekking, mountain biking or hang-gliding, pay a visit to the Himalayan Film School– a prestigious institute of the country that conducts various filmmaking and photography workshops. While you’re here, you can also visit the neighbouring Deer Park Institute– a cultural centre established by the Dalai Lama in 2006. Spend your day strolling through the Tibetan colony, exploring the town’s many cafes kike Garden Cafe, June 16 or Ara. Stay at: Sukoon Bagh Doubles from Rs8,000. Website

Instead of Shimla, try Landour

A small cantonment town near Dehradun, Landour is a quaint and quiet suburb of Mussoorie with architecture and aesthetics akin to what they were during the British Raj. The Chukker Trail is a three-kilometre walk that loops around the town and is the perfect way to take in the sights on foot. Stop by Landour’s Char Dukan, a cluster of four shops whose history can be traced back to the 1800s during the arrival of the British. Today, the shops have been split into six and sell snacks and refreshments and hill-station staples such as Maggi, omelette-pav and lemon tea. Near the marketplace, you’ll also find St. Paul’s Church, which is over 150 years old. For those who love nothing but good views and something to nibble on, Lal Tibba is a vantage point that offers a beautiful view of the valley and surrounding hills. The cafe nearby is perfect for a cup of coffee while you take in the sights. Other places worth visiting for food include Anil’s Cafe, Landour Bakehouse, and Doma’s Inn. Stay at: La Villa Bethany, Doubles from Rs 20,000. Website



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12 gorgeous hotels and homestays in Manali



This boutique two-bedroom mountain lodge nestled on a hilltop and located just a few kilometres away from Manali’s city with longest name centre makes for a rustic getaway in the mountains. Scandinavian light fixtures and local artefacts add to the eclectic vibe of this space, along with extensive use of recycled and reclaimed wood. But the real showstopper here is the glasshouse, where you can dine under the stars or simply soak in the sun. A lot of the wooden interiors have been fashioned using pine, English oak and Burma Teak, especially across the hall and in the spacious rooms that can host up to four guests. With the reserve pine forest on one end and the mountain ranges on the other, the Taara House makes for a picture-perfect retreat or a base for your workcation in Manali. Entire lodge from Rs18,000 per night with a minimum stay of two nights. Website

WelcomHeritage Urvashi’s Retreat, Manali

Located in the picturesque environs of Bipasha valley, this boutique property that doubles as a nature retreat offers rooms, cottages and villas with chalet-style interiors, perfect for a cosy winter getaway. Definitely try the special pahaari dham menu, which is a modern rendition of traditional Himachali staples, think, gahat ka shorba (lentil soup), laung pulao, maash dal (black lentil dal), kaddu ka khatta (pumpkin curry), among other dishes. You can also enjoy evening suppers and breakfasts at Rohtang Pavillion, the property’s dining hall. Doubles from Rs9,000 including breakfast. Website

ShivAdya, Manali



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This homestay near Manali comes with a private beachfront by river Beas



River views are everywhere at Raison D’Etre

They initially built a modest two-bedroom apartment to stay in while they designed their home. The plan was to use it as a guest wing for when their family would visit. Soon, their neighbours persuaded them to turn the guest wing into a larger four-bedroom paying guest accommodation. “There are almost no other comparably located riverside homes between Kullu and Manali,” Shalini tells me. Their current home is separated from the guest house by a garden, allowing guests enough privacy when they visit.

Now, the two are spending their 50s running their own communication design firm from the hills while also managing the homestay, interacting with guests and bottling home-made jams, chutneys and fruit juices. The couple live with their two cats named Baarish and Bijlee who don’t always take kindly to furry interlopers, so make sure to check with the hosts in advance if you plan on bringing pets along. 

The food

Each of the two floors has a pantry with tea, coffee, a microwave and refrigerator, cutlery and crockery but meals are cooked in a separate guest kitchen. Unless it’s raining or snowing, all meals are served alfresco, under an apricot tree. Though there is an in-house cook, Nitin enjoys cooking family favourites for guests. Breakfast specials include a reimagined Railway omelette that he would eat as a child at the Kalka railway station, Sindhi toast, balsamic glazed mushroom omelette and green chilli and basil scrambled eggs. Don’t miss out on the range of dals the hosts cook—dal Moradabadi, Punjabi dhaba dal with buttermilk, Lakhnavi arhar dal and bhuni moong with panch phoran, among others. For meals, you can enjoy regional chicken curries, a family recipe of Pahadi-style mountain goat meat-chawal, as well as Southeast Asian dishes like Thai curries, Korean bibimbap and Khow Suey. And, of course, homemade jams, chutneys, pickles and juices made with fruits grown on the property orchard are served with all meals. The couple will soon begin work on a new kitchen that guests can use on request and a larger indoor dining space to accommodate all guests when the weather isn’t suited for outdoor dining. 



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