Himachal Pradesh Archives

Himachal beyond Shimla-Manali: 7 escapes from the crowds

If paragliding is on your bucket list, head to Bir in Himachal Pradesh. Since the 1960s, the village has also been home to a Tibetan Colony, as refugees settled here during the uprising in 1959. It, therefore, has several Buddhist monasteries that you can visit such as the Sherabling Monastery, the Chokling Monastery or the Drukpa Kagyu Monastery. When you’re done exploring every adventure sport such as paragliding, camping, trekking, mountain biking or hang-gliding, pay a visit to the Himalayan Film School– a prestigious institute of the country that conducts various filmmaking and photography workshops. While you’re here, you can also visit the neighbouring Deer Park Institute– a cultural centre established by the Dalai Lama in 2006. Spend your day strolling through the Tibetan colony, exploring the town’s many cafes kike Garden Cafe, June 16 or Ara. Stay at: Sukoon Bagh Doubles from Rs8,000. Website

Instead of Shimla, try Landour

A small cantonment town near Dehradun, Landour is a quaint and quiet suburb of Mussoorie with architecture and aesthetics akin to what they were during the British Raj. The Chukker Trail is a three-kilometre walk that loops around the town and is the perfect way to take in the sights on foot. Stop by Landour’s Char Dukan, a cluster of four shops whose history can be traced back to the 1800s during the arrival of the British. Today, the shops have been split into six and sell snacks and refreshments and hill-station staples such as Maggi, omelette-pav and lemon tea. Near the marketplace, you’ll also find St. Paul’s Church, which is over 150 years old. For those who love nothing but good views and something to nibble on, Lal Tibba is a vantage point that offers a beautiful view of the valley and surrounding hills. The cafe nearby is perfect for a cup of coffee while you take in the sights. Other places worth visiting for food include Anil’s Cafe, Landour Bakehouse, and Doma’s Inn. Stay at: La Villa Bethany, Doubles from Rs 20,000. Website

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9 cosy hotels and homestays in Kasauli

This colonial-style boutique hotel located on a quiet hilltop makes for a charming getaway in the mountains. This spring season is also the perfect time to enjoy the flowers in bloom and trek through lush orchards and gardens. Each bedroom comes with its own verandah overlooking the picturesque pine forests. Get the chefs to whip up a local meal for you, using fresh produce from the gardens and for balmy summer nights, dining al fresco on the hazel terrace makes for a surreal setting. You can also opt for activities like trekking, nature trails and outdoor picnics arranged by the staff. Doubles from Rs7,650 inclusive of breakfast. Website

Baikunth Resort, Kasauli

If it’s a serene getaway you’re after, check yourself into this resort with its calming views and quaint accommodation. Spread over five acres of pine forests, Baikunth offers 35 well-appointed rooms and rustic cottages, each with private sit-outs offering sweeping valley views. The restaurant serves up multi-cuisine fare, so take your pick from Indian, Chinese or Continental cuisine, or unwind with a drink at the resort’s glasshouse bar. And if you’re travelling with kids, the resort’s jungle gym and nearby nature trails are a great way to keep them occupied. Doubles from Rs8,500 Website

Southgate, Kasauli

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This pretty Kasauli homestay is a birdwatcher’s delight

Nestled in the lower Himalayas, just 60kms away from Chandigarh, Kasauli has always been popular with travellers who look beyond crowded hill stations. With an old bazaar, colonial churches, gabled homes and many hiking trails, Kasauli is for those who want to travel slowly—and Southgate Kasauli, a private home nestled in the Kasauli hills, is the ideal place to experience the town the old-fashioned way.

About Southgate Kasauli

The home, spread over three floors, offers multiple lodging options: you can book a single room, a floor, or the entire place with two floors, four bedrooms, two living rooms and multiple balconies. The owner, Gautam Dhawan lives on the top floor.“Southgate was built by my parents after they had to sell our family home, a sprawling colonial mansion in Shimla called Southgate, post our grandparent’s passing,” informs Dhawan. “We named this place after the original Southgate and have retained parts of it here. It also overlooks the hills where the original house once stood,” he adds.

An aerial view of the living room

The basic layout of the rooms is minimal but the design elements set them apart from each other. “We have kept the basics simple but have played around with lighting, furniture, art and decor that give each room a distinct character,” says Dhawan. The living areas are accented with installations from Dhawan’s own home decor brand, Exhibit D, along with family heirlooms and collectibles. “Southgate has an eclectic mix of elements and bits of all our homes: some vintage furniture from Calcutta, Shimla and Delhi and many small and big vignettes from our travels over the years.” And so, you find modern chairs sitting next to vintage tables, edgy art next to traditional handicrafts, brass accents next to fine porcelain. Together they not only reflect Dhawan’s design sensibilities but also make the space deeply personal.

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This homestay near Manali comes with a private beachfront by river Beas

River views are everywhere at Raison D’Etre

They initially built a modest two-bedroom apartment to stay in while they designed their home. The plan was to use it as a guest wing for when their family would visit. Soon, their neighbours persuaded them to turn the guest wing into a larger four-bedroom paying guest accommodation. “There are almost no other comparably located riverside homes between Kullu and Manali,” Shalini tells me. Their current home is separated from the guest house by a garden, allowing guests enough privacy when they visit.

Now, the two are spending their 50s running their own communication design firm from the hills while also managing the homestay, interacting with guests and bottling home-made jams, chutneys and fruit juices. The couple live with their two cats named Baarish and Bijlee who don’t always take kindly to furry interlopers, so make sure to check with the hosts in advance if you plan on bringing pets along.

The food

Each of the two floors has a pantry with tea, coffee, a microwave and refrigerator, cutlery and crockery but meals are cooked in a separate guest kitchen. Unless it’s raining or snowing, all meals are served alfresco, under an apricot tree. Though there is an in-house cook, Nitin enjoys cooking family favourites for guests. Breakfast specials include a reimagined Railway omelette that he would eat as a child at the Kalka railway station, Sindhi toast, balsamic glazed mushroom omelette and green chilli and basil scrambled eggs. Don’t miss out on the range of dals the hosts cook—dal Moradabadi, Punjabi dhaba dal with buttermilk, Lakhnavi arhar dal and bhuni moong with panch phoran, among others. For meals, you can enjoy regional chicken curries, a family recipe of Pahadi-style mountain goat meat-chawal, as well as Southeast Asian dishes like Thai curries, Korean bibimbap and Khow Suey. And, of course, homemade jams, chutneys, pickles and juices made with fruits grown on the property orchard are served with all meals. The couple will soon begin work on a new kitchen that guests can use on request and a larger indoor dining space to accommodate all guests when the weather isn’t suited for outdoor dining.

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Where to eat breakfast in McLeod Ganj

This laidback space with its community tables and low, cushioned seating might be a bit off the radar but those in the know swear by the Tibetan and Chinese cuisine on offer, along with a smattering of Western fare, which includes gluten-free and vegan eats as well. Whether it’s a plate of momos, pancakes, Thukpa soup, French Press coffee and teas, you can treat yourself to a hearty breakfast spread here.

Sewarg Ashram Road, Tushita Road, McLeod Ganj. Facebook

Zomsa Laundromat Cafe

This laundromat also doubles up as a cafe, serving plates of hot momos in variants like spinach and cheese, mutton or chicken, along with a variety of soups and noodles, Tibetan bread, pancakes, eggs done different ways and several types of teas.

Tipa Road, Opp Zomsa Restaurant, McLeod Ganj, Dharamshala. Facebook

Morgan’s Place

Along with food, you’re also treated to great views at Morgan’s Place. Photo: Arzoo Dina

Located in the village of Dharamkot, just off McLeod Ganj, Morgan’s Place might look unassuming with its facade and can be easily missable with a maze of steps that lead down to the cafe, but the trek is worth it. Settle in for fresh juices or a hot lemon-ginger tea, breakfast pizza, paninis, pancakes and salads, with sweeping views of the valley.

Dharamkot, McLeod Ganj. Instagram

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